Kazakhstan

Ewan and Charley are on the road to Kazakhstan. They notice how both the terrain and people have changed. At the border they are met by a welcoming committee.

Almost immediately they encounter the horrible roads they've been dreading. Claudio (the cameraman) falls first. Later Ewan admits to being scared about falling off and nervous about the bad roads.

The second greatest problem for Ewan and Charley are the constant police escorts: the last thing they want, they are quickly growing very tired of them.

Another welcoming committee which although the guys appreciate, they want to be unfettered in their journey.

A light moment filming a herd of giant woolly camels quickly turns heavy. A very rattled looking Ewan and Charley tell how a man in a car just pointed a gun at them.

Another police escort takes the guys to a roadside turnout filled with more police cars and television cameras. Ewan is confused and upset.

A policeman offers his house as a rest spot. Ewan is exhausted and happy to sleep on anything. Ewan and Charley see themselves on the local TV news and realise it's impossible to fully blend in. A light-hearted moment before bed ends a long and arduous day.

Another police escort delivers them into a full-blown media event. Charley voices how bad he feels for Ewan. They state they don't need any more police escorts.

Free for the first time, Ewan and Charley drive to their first night camp. Ewan is giddy at the prospect while Charley is a reluctant camper. They wonder what else is to come.

In great spirits, Ewan and Charley have a great visit to a UNICEF project: a school with an indoor-climbing wall for kids.

More terrible roads: Ewan talks about wobbling all over and Charley, the experienced off-roader says they are the worst roads he's ever seen. On cue we see the guys struggling with their bikes in the sand.

At their second camp Ewan reveals a bug bite on his forehead and explains how being scared of failing on the bike has exhausted him. Ewan is very down. Charley shares some of the same concerns.

En route to the Aral Sea there is some respite in the form of tarmac. Ewan's forehead starts to swell in reaction to the bug bite. Bad luck strikes: Ewan gets petrol in his eyes again and in his ear. In his most revealing video diary we see his swollen face and frustration at having spent 15 minutes talking to his video camera with pause on.

The guys reach a beautiful 14th century mausoleum. Ewan can't recall all the details of its story and notes he is now just riding along and meeting the people he meets.

At a lavish luncheon for them - Ewan warns Charley that at these banquets horse penis is often served; lots of jokes follow about a suspect sausage. Ewan and Charley attend a 'goat polo' match and watch a traditional game of horseback kiss-chase. Ewan and Charley race each other on horseback.

In need of pampering, Ewan and Charley go to a traditional Kazakh spa (bathhouse). The massage they receive involves a brutal beating and rubdown, through which the guys moan and grunt their way.

The ever-present police are actually a help when they point out the road to a canyon the guys want see. The road back up out of it is almost impassable. After the canyon they bizarrely see piles of snow by the road despite the 105 degree temperature!

Ewan and Charley go to a gold mine, a site they always planned on visiting. In typical Charley fashion he nicks a piece of gold-filled rock. A quick montage reveals the guys arriving at the Singing Dunes. Met by another police escort, they are too tired to resist this time and follow them into town.

As it's their last night in Kazakhstan Ewan and Charley give in and enjoy a loosely organised show by local singers. They are invited home by a policeman and his wife and follow them back to their house. Ewan explains how he used to feel quite nervous but now it's quite normal to go back to strangers' houses for a meal and the possibility of staying the night. Confusion at the house; no-one knows what's going on. Exhausted and smelly the guys try out the banya (traditional sauna). Their hosts lay on an amazing spread of food and Ewan bravely samples the local speciality- boiled goat's head.

In diary camera bites, Ewan notes how beautiful the people of Kazakhstan are for wanting to know about them and wanting to share themselves with the guys. In a touching farewell moment, Ewan finally understands the police escorts cannot be blamed as they were only doing what they'd been told.

At a roadside café Charley successfully orders their last Kazakh meal using a picture book of food. Ewan is very sad to leave this beautiful country but excited to get into Mongolia. Charley is amazed they've driven half way round the continent on their bikes!