Michael Palin starts the final leg of his epic adventure across Venezuela, as he enters Zulia state. Next to the border with Colombia, it is on the UK Foreign Office no visit ‘red zone' list and one of the most dangerous parts of the country, with a history of violence, gang warfare and a recent mass exodus of people - leaving areas like ghost cities.
Michael then embarks on a three-hour boat journey across Lake Maracaibo to a remote fishing village called Ologa. It's the best place to see the famous Catatumbo lightning, but as soon as he arrives, Michael discovers the village has been invaded by thousands of toxic moths and he has to leave immediately. He ends up spending the night in a hammock, on a rickety concrete viewing platform on the lake. He finally sees the lightning, alone, from afar, but only when he gets up to use the loo at 3am, after a feast of fresh crab and a few beers!
The next day, Michael returns to Maracaibo city, once the centre of Venezuela's oil production and city of hope. But while Maracaibo used to be the richest place in Venezuela, much of it is now boarded up, thanks to the collapse of the country's economy. Away from the forbidding streets, exploring Maracaibo's historic centre, Michael finds a livelier side to the city and meets María Peinado. Venezuela is obsessed with a unique idea of feminine beauty which means beauty contests are big business. María was a finalist in the much coveted ‘Miss Venezuela' pageant, but literally fell at the last hurdle. Being an indigenous woman of the region they explore what ethnic identity means in South America.
But Michael has also heard that Venezuela produces the best chocolate in the world and risks a violently bumpy boat journey to the Caribbean coastal town of Chuao. Here, Venezuela feels just like the Caribbean and cacao trees, and a secret recipe, produce the chocolate he's heard so much about - and it doesn't disappoint. And deep into the night, Chuao really comes to life as the Carnival hits town.
Finally, Michael returns to the capital, Caracas, for a government sponsored Carnival parade - where there are guns and soldiers alongside the partying. An endless stream of morotorised floats pass by, and organised chaos begins. And it gives Michael the chance to reflect on Venezuela, a country so beautiful and a people with such spirit. Even with all the challenges of an authoritarian state, Venezuela remains one of the great unseen wonders of the world.
sept. 30, 2025
